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Frome · Beckington · Rode · Westbury · Warminster

Tilers in Frome and surrounding areas

Straight, neat tiling on walls and floors, with the preparation done properly underneath.

Rated Excellent on Rated People

Tiling by a local tradesperson

Tiling is the job of fixing ceramic, porcelain or stone-effect tiles to walls and floors so they stay flat, straight and sealed against water. If you are looking for a tiler, we tile bathrooms, kitchens, hallways, hearths and alcoves for homeowners and landlords, and we fit tiles you have bought elsewhere as well as helping you decide what suits the room.

Most tiling problems start under the tile, not in it. A floor that is not level, a wall that flexes or a missing waterproof layer will show up sooner or later as cracks, hollow tiles or mouldy grout. So we spend time on surface preparation, setting out the layout and choosing the right adhesive, because that is what makes the finished job last.

Tile choice has a big effect on the work. Large-format porcelain needs a very flat base, mosaics need patience, and metro tiles need straight lines all the way along. Send a photo of the area, a picture of the tile if you have one, and rough measurements, and we will explain what the surface needs before any tile is fixed.

Watch

Tiling in 31 seconds

A quick look at how we handle tiling, using photos from real jobs. Captions are on screen, so it works with the sound off.

In this video

  • Walls and floors
  • Preparation first
  • Level, waterproof, set out
  • Metro, porcelain, mosaics
Watch full size and read the transcript

What's included

What we can do: tiling

Every job is different, so this is a guide rather than a fixed menu. If you do not see what you need, ask.

  • Bathroom walls and floors

    Walls and floors are tiled to a straight, level finish, with tidy cuts around pipes, trays and fittings. In wet areas we waterproof first, then set the tiles and finish the joints with flexible sealant where tiles meet baths and trays.

  • Kitchen and hallway floors

    Kitchen, utility and hallway floors need a flat, strong base and neat cuts at doorways. We prepare the floor, lay the tiles with the pattern set out from the door, and finish with grout that suits how the room is used.

  • Large-format porcelain

    Big porcelain tiles look good but show every dip in a wall or floor. We flatten the surface, use the right adhesive and trowel for full coverage, and set the tiles level so there are no uneven edges.

  • Metro, brick-effect and mosaics

    Metro and brick-effect tiles depend on straight lines and even joints. Mosaics are fiddly, often supplied on mesh sheets, and need careful setting out. Both suit shower floors, small walls and feature areas.

  • Terrazzo-effect, marble-effect and feature walls

    Veined and speckled tiles need thought, because the pattern has to run well across a wall or floor. We lay tiles out from several boxes before fixing, and plan feature walls so cuts and patterns sit where they look right.

  • Kitchen splashbacks, alcoves and hearths

    Splashbacks behind a hob or sink, alcove shelves and fireplace hearths are small areas that need accuracy. For a hearth, tell us how the fire or stove is used so the tile and adhesive suit the heat.

  • Floor preparation, levelling and waterproofing

    Floors are cleaned, repaired, levelled or screeded before tiling, and wet areas are waterproofed. Wood floors may need overboarding, and uneven concrete may need a levelling compound. This unseen work decides whether tiles stay put.

  • Grouting, sealant and wall panels

    Grout is chosen for the room, and flexible sealant goes where tiles meet baths, trays and worktops. If you would rather avoid tiling, waterproof wall panels are a quicker alternative for showers and bathroom walls, and we fit those too.

How it works

How a tiling job runs

  1. Message us on WhatsApp

    Send photos of the area, rough measurements and a picture of the tiles or the look you want. If you have already bought tiles, tell us the size and how many boxes you have.

  2. Check the surface and plan the job

    We visit to check the walls and floor are flat, dry and sound, and plan the layout so cuts are balanced. You get a free, no-obligation quote, and we tell you how many tiles to order.

  3. Preparation

    Old tiles come off, surfaces are levelled, boarded or screeded as needed, and wet areas are waterproofed and primed. This stage matters more than any other, and we do not rush it.

  4. Setting the tiles

    Tiles are fixed to a marked-out layout with full adhesive coverage, checked for level and flatness as we go. Cuts around pipes, corners and fittings are made neatly rather than filled in afterwards.

  5. Grout, sealant and handover

    Once the adhesive has set, we grout, clean off the haze and seal the corners and edges. We tidy up, remove the waste, and explain how to look after the finished tiling.

Pricing

What affects the quote

We do not publish prices because no two homes are the same. Here is what moves the number, so you know what to expect when you ask.

Get an accurate quote
  1. 1

    Area and number of cuts

    The more square metres to cover, the longer the job. Rooms full of corners, windows, pipes, steps and niches need far more cutting than a plain rectangular wall, even when the area is the same.

  2. 2

    Tile size and type

    Large-format porcelain, small mosaics and natural-effect patterns each need a different approach. Very large or heavy tiles need a flatter base and heavier handling, while mosaics take longer to set out and grout.

  3. 3

    Layout and pattern

    Straight rows are quicker than herringbone, chevron, diagonal layouts or borders. Feature walls and patterns that need matching across boxes take extra set-out time, and tiled niches or window reveals add to it.

  4. 4

    Condition of the surface

    Uneven walls, old tiles to remove, cracked screed, damp patches and timber floors that flex all need dealing with first. We rarely judge this fully without seeing it, which is why we normally visit.

  5. 5

    Waterproofing in wet areas

    Showers, wet rooms and baths need a waterproof layer under the tiles. That means extra materials, extra stages and time to cure before tiling can start, so wet areas take longer than dry walls.

  6. 6

    Who supplies the tiles

    Tell us if you are buying the tiles and which size, so we can advise on quantities and cutting waste. Photos of the area and rough measurements of each wall and floor let us quote accurately before we visit.

Your type of home

Tiling advice by property type

Older and newer homes throw up different surprises. Here is what we look out for.

Victorian & Edwardian terraces
Solid walls often have old, hollow or damp plaster, and salts can push tiles off if the wall is wet. Timber floors flex, so tiled floors need overboarding or a decoupling layer. If you have an original tiled hall floor, send photos before anything is lifted, as repair is often better than replacement.
Georgian & period properties
Lime plaster is soft and breathable, so tiling straight onto it can fail and may trap moisture. We usually fix a backer board or advise on alternatives. Check first if the building is listed or in a conservation area before covering or removing historic floors, tiles or walls.
Stone cottages & farmhouses
Stone floors and walls are uneven, so very large tiles highlight every hollow. Smaller tiles and good levelling work better. Solid ground floors may have little damp protection, so we test for moisture before laying and tell you if the base is not ready for tiling.
1920s–30s semis & detached homes
Bay windows, chimney breasts and alcoves mean a lot of awkward cuts, so the layout needs planning from the middle of the wall. Original tiled fireplaces and old hearths may need removing carefully. Solid ground floors are a good base for floor tiles if levelled correctly.
1950s–70s estate homes
Small rooms with plain walls suit larger tiles, which cut down grout lines. Older walls can have textured finishes or loose plaster that needs removing first, and screeded floors can crack or sit uneven. We level or board before tiling so the new surface sits flat.
Modern & new-build homes
Plasterboard walls need priming and sometimes boarding behind wet areas, and chipboard floors flex enough to crack tiles unless they are stiffened or overboarded. Standard dimensions help with planning, but walls are not always as flat as they look, so check before choosing large tiles.
Flats & apartments
Check your lease before laying hard flooring above a neighbour’s ceiling, as some require sound insulation under tiles. Floor height is often limited, so tile thickness and door clearances matter. We plan how tiles, adhesive and waste are carried up stairs or in lifts.

What customers say

Real reviews from real homeowners

“Pleasant polite tidy, carried out work quickly and efficiently”
Mrs Jill, BA2Verified · October 2025
“I would highly recommend Krzysztof he was professional, good time keeper and took pride in his work very pleased with the finished Bathroom makeover”
Sarah, BA5Verified · May 2025
“On time, quick and willing to help out. He also did a very good job”
Lucy, BA11Verified · January 2025
“Came out fixed the leak straight away. Unable to continue with rest due to allowing the walls to dry out. Even over the past few days the wall is drying well. Thanks.”
John, BA21Verified · December 2024
Read all reviews on Rated PeopleSee our Google reviews

Written reviews are copied word for word from our public Rated People profile. The Google rating comes from our public Google Business Profile.

Questions

Tiling FAQs

How does a tiling quote work?

Quotes are free with no obligation. Send photos of the area and rough measurements on WhatsApp, along with the tile size if you have chosen it. We will ask about the surface, normally visit to check it, and then give you a written quote setting out what is included.

How long does a typical tiling job take?

It depends on the area, the size and type of tile, how much preparation the surface needs and how complicated the layout is. Adhesive and grout also need to set between stages. We give you an honest estimate when we quote.

Can you tile over existing tiles?

Sometimes. If the old tiles are firmly stuck, flat and dry, it can be possible to tile over them with the right primer and adhesive. It adds thickness and can hide problems, so we check them first and tell you honestly when removing them is the better route.

How many tiles should I order?

Always order extra, because tiles get cut, broken or used up in a pattern, and a later batch may not match. The amount depends on the layout, tile size and number of cuts, so ask us before you order and we will work it out with you.

Should I choose tiles or wall panels?

It depends on the room. Tiles give more choice and a traditional finish, while wall panels are quicker to fit and have fewer joints. Panels suit showers and bathroom walls where you want fewer grout lines, and tiles suit kitchens, floors and feature walls. We can fit either.

How do you stop grout and sealant going mouldy?

Good preparation, flexible sealant in corners and decent ventilation do most of the work. Sealant, not grout, goes where tiles meet baths, trays and worktops, because those joints move. We clean off residue and show you how to look after the joints afterwards.

Free, no-obligation

Get your free quote

The quickest route to an accurate price is a WhatsApp message with photos. The more you can tell us, the more precise we can be.

  • A few photosThe room as it is now, from the corners, plus anything awkward like pipes, windows or radiators.
  • Rough measurementsWall lengths are plenty to start with. We will confirm exact sizes before ordering anything.
  • What you wantWhat stays, what goes, any products you have already chosen, and when you would like it done.

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