Porcelain or ceramic tiles: what is the difference?
Both are fired clay, but porcelain is denser. By definition it absorbs very little water, around half a percent or less, which makes it hard-wearing and a safe choice for floors and showers. Ceramic tiles absorb more, are softer and are usually glazed on the surface only. They are lighter, easier to cut and well suited to walls.
Check that a tile is rated for floor use, because not every ceramic wall tile is. Look at the edges too. Rectified tiles are cut square so they can be laid with very fine joints, but they show every bump in the surface underneath. And a chip in a glazed tile can show a different colour beneath, so ask whether the body runs through.
Large-format, mosaic and metro tiles
Large-format tiles give fewer grout lines and a calm look, but they are unforgiving. They show every undulation in the wall or floor, so the surface has to be flat, and they need the right trowel, full adhesive coverage and often a levelling system to keep edges flush. They are heavy to handle, and cutting around pipes and valves takes planning.
Mosaics are the opposite. Lots of grout lines means more cleaning, but small tiles follow the falls in a shower floor and give good grip underfoot. Metro tiles are a classic for walls and splash zones, with short, tidy runs of joint. In wet areas a stain-resistant grout, and an occasional wipe-down, keeps joints looking good.
Natural stone and waterproof wall panels
Natural stone looks good, but it is porous, varies from tile to tile and normally needs sealing before and after grouting. Some cleaners can etch or stain it, so it asks for more care than a fired tile, and it is often heavy. It is worth considering if you are happy with the upkeep.
Waterproof wall panels come in large sheets with few joints and no grout, which makes them quick to clean and straightforward to fit. They need a sound, flat, dry surface, and the weak points are the joints, corners and holes around valves, all of which must be sealed properly. They suit shower walls and bath surrounds rather than floors, and they mark more easily than a fired tile.
Slip ratings, floor loadings and heated floors
For floors, look at the slip rating. R ratings, from R9 to R13, are a laboratory measure, and the higher the number the more grip. For wet barefoot areas such as a shower floor you may also see A, B and C classes. More texture means more grip but also more cleaning, so match the finish to the area, and ask the supplier for the actual rating rather than assuming.
Weight and levelling matter too. Tile, adhesive and any screed add load, and an old timber floor may need stiffening or overboarding first. Raising the floor level also affects door clearances and thresholds. Heated floors suit porcelain well because it conducts heat. Electric mats are laid in flexible adhesive, usually under a thin levelling layer, with a floor sensor and thermostat. Thick tiles and stone take longer to warm.
What goes behind the tile: substrates and waterproofing
Tile is only as good as what it sticks to. Plasterboard can take tile in dry areas and splash zones if it is primed. In showers, a waterproof backer board or a fully tanked wall is better. Timber floors need a stiff overlay board, or a decoupling layer, because movement cracks tiles and grout. New plaster must be dry and primed, and old plaster needs checking for loose patches.
Tiles and grout are not a waterproof system. Water passes through grout joints, so a shower enclosure needs tanking: a waterproof membrane or boards, sealed at every joint, corner and pipe penetration, applied beneath the tile. Panels have the same weakness at their joints. A wet room extends the tanking across the whole floor and walls. Get this layer right, because once it is tiled over it is the hardest thing to fix.
Which tile suits shower areas, splash zones and floors?
Treat each part of the room differently. Water, wear and cleaning are not the same on a shower floor, a splash zone and a dry floor, so one material rarely suits everywhere. Mixing is common and sensible, as long as the waterproofing underneath is done properly wherever water lands. The list below is a starting point rather than a rule.
- Shower floor: porcelain mosaics or small tiles with a wet barefoot slip rating, over tanking
- Shower walls: porcelain, ceramic or waterproof panels on a tanked or waterproof backer
- Splash zones around basins and baths: ceramic, metro tiles or panels
- Bathroom floor: porcelain with a suitable R rating on a flat, stiff base
- Natural stone: anywhere you accept the sealing and upkeep
Next steps
Before you buy anything, take a few photos of the room, measure the walls and floor, and decide whether you want a wet room, a shower enclosure or a bath. Send those on WhatsApp, along with photos of any tiles you like, and we will talk through what suits the room and what the surfaces underneath will need. The quote is free, with no obligation.
Quick answers
Is porcelain better than ceramic for a bathroom?
For floors and shower areas, usually yes, because porcelain absorbs very little water and is hard-wearing. Ceramic is lighter, easier to cut and works well on walls away from direct water. Many bathrooms use both. Choose by where the tile goes, check it is rated for that use, and make sure the surface behind it is right.
Are bathroom wall panels really waterproof?
The panels themselves are, but the joints, corners and holes around valves are where water gets in. They need a flat, sound surface behind them and every joint sealed properly. Done well they work well in showers and around baths. Done badly, water finds the gaps just as it does with poor grouting.
Do I still need tanking if I use porcelain tiles in a shower?
Yes. Porcelain barely absorbs water, but grout and adhesive are not waterproof and water can pass through the joints into the wall or floor. A tanking system beneath the tile is what keeps the structure dry. Skipping it is one of the most common causes of leaks and damp behind shower walls.