Strip out first, then look at what is underneath
Everything old comes out first: suite, tiles, flooring and any boxing round pipes. This is the moment to look properly. Check the floor boards or screed for movement, staining or soft spots, and look at the pipework for corrosion or old repairs. A bathroom floor that has been damp for years can hide rot in the boards or joists, and it is far better to find that now than after the new tiles are down.
The layout is settled here too. A WC soil pipe needs a continuous fall to the stack, which limits where the toilet can sit, while a basin or shower waste is more forgiving. If you want fittings in new positions, decide before first fix, not after. Order the bath or shower tray now and check its real dimensions against the room, because a few millimetres either way changes how the tiling finishes.
First fix: pipes, cables and extraction
First fix is everything that ends up hidden behind boards and tiles. On the plumbing side that means hot and cold supplies, waste runs and the shower valve at its final height. On the electrical side it means lighting, the extractor fan and feeds for anything like a heated towel rail or mirror. Bathrooms have extra rules about where electrical equipment can go, based on zones around the bath and shower, so positions are planned before a cable is run.
Electrical work in homes in England must meet Part P of the Building Regulations and BS 7671, and some jobs need notifying to Building Control. Ventilation is covered by the Regulations too. Ask us what applies to your job, or check with your local Building Control. Fan ducting should run to outside with a slight fall towards the outlet, so condensation drains away rather than back into the fan.
Boarding, waterproofing and getting the floor right
Once first fix is checked, the walls are boarded and the floor is made ready. Tile backer boards or a properly sealed, sound substrate go in the shower and bath areas, because plain plasterboard does not cope with sustained water. The floor must be stiff and flat. A bouncy timber floor cracks tiles and grout, so it may need extra fixings or an overlay of suitable board before anything is laid.
Waterproofing, often called tanking, then goes on in shower areas and usually round the bath. It covers corners, joints and the points where pipes pass through, and it has to follow the manufacturer's instructions, including the cure time before tiling. A failure here shows up later, often as a stain on the ceiling below, long after the job looks finished.
Tile first, then fit the rest of the suite
Baths and shower trays are set in place before wall tiling, so the tiles can finish just above the edge and be sealed to it. Wall tiling comes next, then the floor, with adhesive and grout left to cure properly. The WC, basin and taps go on afterwards. Fitting them first means working round fixed objects, which makes for untidy cuts and a harder job getting everything level.
Silicone goes on last, once the grout has cured, and it needs to cure before the shower is used. Joints that move, such as where a wall meets a bath, take flexible sealant rather than grout, because grout cracks there as the bath flexes under the weight of water. Masking the lines before sealing gives a crisp finish.
How long does a bathroom refit take?
It depends on the job, and we would rather explain what controls it than guess. The main factors are how much needs repairing once the old bathroom is out, whether the layout is moving, and the curing time that waterproofing, adhesive, grout and sealant each need before the next stage can start. Deliveries matter too, because a missing part can stall one stage. Changes of mind mid-job lengthen things as well. Curing times are set by the materials, not by how hard anyone works, which is why we give a timescale once we have seen photos of the room.
Second fix and snagging
Second fix is the visible finish: WC and basin connected, taps and shower trim, screen, towel rail, lights and fan cover. Then everything is tested under pressure before anyone relies on it. Snagging is the careful last look for small faults, and it is worth doing together with the fitter so anything found is dealt with while the work is fresh.
- Every tap, valve and flush works smoothly, with no weeps at joints
- Waste runs freely and the shower drains without pooling
- Silicone lines are continuous and neat at the bath or tray
- A sheet of tissue is pulled firmly to the extractor grille
- Towel rails, doors and screens are solid and level
Next steps
Take photos of the whole room, the floor, the pipework and where the extractor sits, then measure each wall and the ceiling height. Send them to us on WhatsApp with a note of what you want changed, and we will talk through the sequence for your bathroom and give you a free, no-obligation quote. Mention whether the bathroom is upstairs or down, because it changes how waste and waterproofing are handled.
Quick answers
What order should a bathroom be renovated in?
Strip out, first fix plumbing and electrics, board and waterproof, tile, then second fix and snagging. Baths and shower trays go in before wall tiling, while the WC, basin and taps go on afterwards. Sealant goes on last and needs to cure before the shower is used.
Should I tile or fit the bathroom suite first?
Fit the bath or shower tray first, tile next, then fit the WC, basin and taps. Tiles need to finish at the edge of the bath or tray and be sealed to it, while toilets and basins are easier to fit and level against finished walls and floor.
Do I need Building Regulations approval to replace a bathroom?
Replacing fittings like for like may not need it, but new electrical circuits, changed drainage, moved walls and ventilation work can be covered. The rules depend on your job and property, so check with your local Building Control or ask us what applies when we quote.